Tag Archives: HQ v. "the field"

The arse-end of nowhere

30 May

Some days I think NGOs are the bane of the aid world.

* * *

Back when I was first starting my career in humanitarian work, I spent what felt at the time like an eternity living in and going to some of the most out-of-the-way, infested, grimy, uncomfortable, downtrodden, and generally impoverished places you can imagine. Once during that period, I ran into in a British guy passing through the town where I was living at the time. It was small, dusty settlement in the bend of a dirty, slow-moving river. He described that place as “the arse-end of nowhere.”

For humanitarian workers, it is almost a point of pride to say that we log our share of time at the arse-end of nowhere. Whether the arse-end of nowhere is an urban center recently decimated by a huge natural disaster, a high altitude community with no access or services, or a tiny island with no airstrip or harbor. We love to tell ourselves that we love to suffer in those obscure places where the power always goes out, where there’s no water and we get sick from the food, where dogs yap all night.

The arse-end of nowhere is those remote places where life is tough, where progress is hard to achieve and see, and where even the smallest gains are incredibly fragile and can evaporate in a split second over issues that would be nothing in the “outside world.” At the arse-end of nowhere information about the external context is hard to get. When you’re at the arse-end of nowhere things that seem straightforward and obvious from the outside, suddenly become entangled and messy. Logic and reason go out the window at the arse-end of nowhere: people from there, with little or no external worldview, frequently make ludicrous assumptions about how things are or jump to wild conclusions about causes and effect.

Everything takes longer, too. Tasks that an outsider might think should be simple can in reality take all day, or maybe even longer, at the arse-end of nowhere. And there’s sometimes danger. Sometimes just getting through the day without being kidnapped, shot at, driving on a landmine, or falling over the edge of a cliff can be an accomplishment of significance at the arse-end of nowhere.

When you’re at the arse-end of nowhere you have to consciously lock yourself into a mode of thinking which says approximately, “I will do what I have to do to get by, to survive, to function effectively in this environment.” Maybe you have to dress differently in order to accommodate local sensitivities. Maybe you have to eat different food, because that’s all there is. Maybe you have to summon every ounce of patience that you possibly can when working with local staff and partners – not that they’re not nice people, and not that you dislike them as people, but because their core beliefs about what you’re all there to accomplish and what your respective roles in that process of accomplishment are so vastly different from your own that there is almost no common point of reference. Sometimes the only thing that you have when it comes to local working relationships at the arse-end of nowhere is a shared meal and maybe a cold beer at the end of the day.

Working at the arse-end of nowhere can sometimes feel like an endless string of capitulations in an apparent total vacuum of logic and reason. You can spend an awful lot of time not really knowing what’s going on at the arse-end of nowhere. It can feel like – and often is – a seemingly endless cycle of returning to square one, re-establishing basic consensus, laboriously moving on to square two, establishing basic consensus, putting a tentative toe ever so lightly onto square three… and… it all crumbles.

And… you’re back square one.

Again.

There are reasons why the arse-end of nowhere is the arse-end of nowhere.

* * *

Don’t get me wrong. I love aid work, and I get that that – almost by definition – includes NGOs. But as I look at how hard it is for aid organziations to stay on track, or by contrast, how easily we get distracted, entangled, and muddled it becomes tougher to fight a growing sense of despair with the system.

And yet, in an odd way, at the same time, when I look at the amount of energy and effort that goes into just keeping the machine chugging along; when I consider the amount of angst, drama and dumbassery involved in simply keeping the ship steered in one direction; when I look at the amount of work that it takes to achieve consensus on even the basic, no-brainer kinds of decisions, even before one piece of relief has reached even one disaster survivor; when I look at the number of life-saving meetings that have to be not just attended, but called, I begin to feel… nostalgic. I feel nostalgia for times and places where I could at least claim a little street cred for having survived a supposedly difficult environment.

Because as I think about it, the substance of what it takes to “make progress” in the field is almost point-by-point identical to the substance of what it takes to “make progress” in an NGO context. It’s the same battles, the same painful processes that derail in the end, the same boondoggle, the same sidetracking of meaningful discussion about what needs to happen with utterly illogical and very often self-imposed restrictions in the name of corporate culture or identity. We’re so wrapped up in our own spin on reality, so closed off from external conversation, so unable (or unwilling) to consider substantive change at a paradigmatic level, that we really might just as well be in an inaccessible mountain village with no electricity or water.

Working for an aid NGO, whether at HQ or in the field is an awful lot like being at…

the arse-end of nowhere.

Screw the Outsider

7 Feb

There’s an important phenomenon in aid work that I have yet see written down anywhere. We all encounter it, all experience the brunt of it, and we all – at times – even benefit from it. Once I describe the behavior caused by this phenomenon, some of you will want to analyze it in Marxist terms, using the language of power relations, weapons of the weak, opiates, and such. Some of you might prefer a postmodern interpretation, thinking of me simply one of many subjective, contingent knowers. And, yet, more of  you will default to the language of structural-functionalism – “complex wholes” and how this thing that I’m about to describe is but one part of  a multi-layered, multi-dimensional, milti-faceted system, a small cog in a large and complicated machine that cannot be properly appreciated without knowing the larger context. And perhaps you’d all be right. At least a little.

But my professional opinion as an anthropologist who has been at this aid gig for a few years now is that it’s all much simpler than that, really. My theory is that when given the chance, people will almost always…

Screw the Outsider.

I have seen “screw the outsider” in action in more countries and in more contexts that I can possibly remember at this point. And it’s important to understand that “screw the outsider” is highly situational. You can get screwed as the outsider by one group of people one minute, and then in an instant there will be a subtle change in the context, and voila! You’ll be an insider, screwing some outsiders right along with them.

When you stand on the street corner surrounded by motorcycle taxi drivers, you’re totally at their mercy. Good luck getting a fair fare. Screw the outsider.

But then when the police stop the driver and demand to know where he’s taking this foreigner and the driver without knowing a thing about you spins this wildly improbably story about taking you to some urgent life-or-death meeting upon which the fate of the world rests and the policeman warily waves you on, you know the tables have turned. Screw the outsider.

I have had beneficiaries and partners lie to me blantantly on more occasions that I can specifically remember, even when there was no possible advantage available to them in doing so… as far as I could tell, for no other reason that that I was the outsider. And then, on other occasions, those exact same beneficiaries and partners lying to others on my behalf (I didn’t ask them to), including me as one of them (that part was heart-warming). Screw the outsider…

* * *

There’s lots of “screw the outsider” going on in Haiti, as well.

The local staff push back on the expats brought in to help kick-start the emergency response on some things. And understandably so – they’re feeling displaced. “This is Haiti. You can’t run a response here the way you did in Nicaragua after Hurricane Mitch.” Screw the outsiders.

The emergency response team (local staff + expats) complain about and give the runaround to supporting offices in North America and Europe. “They don’t get our context. They don’t know what we’re going through…” Screw the outsiders.

The MSF office is just down the road from our teamhouse, and their positively massive fleet of impossible-to-miss LandRovers (not Landcruisers) clogs the road and doubles the amount of time it takes to get to work in the morning. “Wankers….” we mutter, and urge our driver to cut them off at the intersection. Screw the outsiders.

But then in the coordination meeting when some dude from ECHO gets all snooty with the NGOs, we and MSF and all the other competitors for funding and beneficiaries feel righteous solidarity. We are actually out in the field doing stuff – helping the poor, and the like – not just sitting around in tents wearing name badges and being snooty with NGOs. Screw the outsiders.

Last weekend at this time, WFP had pretty much pissed off every NGO that mattered in Haiti by releasing a monstrous amount of food for immediate widespread simultaneous distribution… targeting women… in 50kg bags. My math is terrible, but by my count 50kg is something like well more than 100 lbs. More than some of the people here weigh. And so the thought of distributing bags that weighed as much as the beneficiaries for them to carry up to three Km home seemed more than just a little bit ludicrous, and well… wrong. And again, there was that NGO solidarity thing. “What the hell was WFP thinking???” We were all each other’s new best friends. Screw the outsider.

And then I get on the phone with some reporter who’s obviously searching for controversy, trying to bait me with leading questions, wanting me to go on record with my frustration about this or that aspect of the overall response. Is coordination a problem? Are the actors tripping over each other in the field? Are major donors responding appropriately to the scale and nature of the need here in Haiti? What do I think about the “Marshall Plan for Haiti” thing? Does the right hand really have any freakin’ clue what the left hand is doing?

But I’m cool as a cucumber.

You’ve got to understand that this is a very complicated context, in many ways totally different from anything we’ve seen prior. Yes, coordination is obviously a challenge, but on that front, at least, things seem to be headed in the right directions. Everyone is trying their best. It’s of critical importance that all the actors – Government of Haiti, UN, NGOs, MINUSTAH, local actors, all remain committed to the response… Of course the level of need outstrips the ability of donors to response fully. On behalf of the Haitian people, we’re very grateful for all that we’re given to work with (except the shoes, that is).  People are amazingly resilient, and we’re already seeing early evidence of long-term recovery strategies taking shape.

Nope – sorry, love. No controversial story here. Other than that fact that it is, you know, a disaster, everything’s fine.

Screw the outsider…

Once more, but with feeling

23 Dec

About two minutes after I published this post last summer, my blog started getting inundated with unwanted traffic of various kinds. I think I’ve fixed the problem, now, and in response to a surprisingly large number of direct email/DM requests for it, I give you (again) reflections on Azerbaijan:

* * * * *

A long time ago I got sent to Tajikistan to work on a PRM project. My counterpart, the country director, was a Nigerian man by the name of “Felix.” As far as I could tell, Felix got his job because he a) was breathing, b) spoke (I guess) passable Russian. Despite the fact that his English was all but unintelligible, it didn’t take long to figure out that he was by some margin the most incompetent and ill-placed field director I’d ever met in person up to that point.

Felix was married to an Armenian refugee from Azerbaijan. Her English was great. And after my first positively disastrous meeting in Dushanbe with Felix as my translator I did something that I do on only rare occasions when visiting a field office: I exerted my will and invoked the power of my (then) employer’s organizational hierarchy. Against his strong protest, I demanded that his wife accompany us as my translator for the duration of my visit.

As we piled into the company UAZ on the morning of the day we’d designated for a district visit, it became evident that neither Felix nor his wife had made any arrangements for the care of their two small children (a small boy of 3 years; a baby girl of 6 months): Felix planned to bring the two kids with us.

It was a too-warm summer day. Warm enough to feel cramped in the back seat of the UAZ, with Felix’s wife and two kids. Felix rode shotgun in the front seat and made sure that Russian disco-y pop music blared more or less constantly for the two-and-a-half hour ride. I’ve long since forgotten the name of the district we visited, but I can still remember the tune of one particular song that Felix re-played several times.

When we pulled up in front of the district health office it was downright hot. I got my first sense of foreboding when Felix’s wife took off her blazer. She was wearing only a T-shirt underneath, with no bra.

We left the two small children in the care of the Tajik driver and went into the meeting. The district health director was a chain-smoking, short, graying man with a dark moustache. He was ogling my translator’s breasts before we’d even completed our introductory pleasantries. I tried to ignore it, and doggedly kept going through the list of questions/discussion points that I’d jotted down for the meeting. 10 minutes in, it was clear that the meeting was going nowhere. He was very obviously distracted, the cause of the distraction equally obvious. Felix may have lacked managerial capability, but he clearly understood what was happening and he was becoming visibly agitated. Only his wife, my translator, seemed oblivious. My sense of foreboding had by now given way to actual anxiety.

Just when I thought the meeting couldn’t possibly go any worse, the six-month-old baby outside with the driver began to fuss. Mother became distracted. Then the baby began to cry. Then she escalated to a full-on howl.

And that’s when her mother’s milk began to flow…

I can’t claim much basis for comparison, but I will say that poor woman’s lactational capacity was impressive. It took about 30 seconds for the front of her thin T-shirt to become entirely soaked. The district health director’s eyes were bugging out of his head and he looked like he was ready to jump across his desk. Felix was beside himself. My anxiety gave way to horrified dismay.

I ended the meeting and got my translator out of the office and into the waiting UAZ with as few words as possible.

That trip to Tajikistan was the only grant-acquisition trip that I ever went on where I flat refused to write a proposal because of too-low country office capacity. And in all honesty, I must admit that the disastrous visit to the District Health Director played a role in my decision.

* * *

A few days ago, I arrived in Baku, Azerbaijan. I came here to do some follow-up work on another PRM project. To give some very brief background, I’ll just share that it was not easy going on the HQ side. Not everyone in my organization thinks that we should be in Azerbaijan at all, let alone doing new PRM grants. It took the sacrifice of some political capital to make this one happen.

My counterpart, the country director here, is an Ethiopian man. In addition to clearly being a strong leader and manager for the team here, he is also one of the most gracious and unpretentious field directors that I’ve had to interact with thus far. My first full day in-country happened to be the day that he and his beautiful family broke a fast (they are practicing Ethiopian Orthodox Christians), and they invited me to spend the day with them in their home. It was my privilege to enjoy an amazing spread of home-cooked Ethiopian food, Georgian wine, and a traditional coffee ceremony.

* * *

I’m sitting in the passenger seat of the company Landcruiser (it’s white – sorry…) bouncing over the high desert between Mingichevir and Baku. My Ethiopian counterpart is driving, snapping his fingers and cheerfully singing along with classic American country music. (Apparently country music is popular in Ethiopia. Who knew?) It’s cracking me up. He knows all the words to almost an entire set of Dolly Parton.

We just finished a morning of meetings with district officials, during which time it became very clear that my Ethiopian counterpart has exceptionally good relationships locally. They obviously respect him and support what he is doing on behalf of my employer. And it shows in the level of support to projects. My counterpart speaks Russian fluently and Azeri very well, and that has got to mean something.

It’s been a short, intensive visit to Azerbaijan. But it couldn’t have gone better. Obviously there is a whole Azeri team in place here, doing great work and getting things done. But it is evident to me that much of the credit for how well things are going belongs with a cheerful Ethiopian country director who sings along with Dolly Parton while driving across Azerbaijan.

I’m thinking back to that awful trip to Tajikistan, the odd ways in which it was similar and yet also contrasts with this trip to Azerbaijan. I’m inwardly chuckling at how many aid-worker one-up-each-other-with-wacky-experiences gatherings I’ve been able to trump with the story of Felix’s poor, mortified wife lactating in front of the District Health Director.

I’m also thinking, if necessary, I’ll go to bat for this guy and this country program again in the future.

And sometimes I just gotta say… this job is too cool.

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